It’s a new year. And there are many interesting exhibitions on in New York at the moment. One show, at the Jewish Museum, focuses on the looks that Chloe has done for the last seventy years and is celebrating Chloe. Founded by Gaby Aghion, the Chloe the show displays the works of the many designers who have collaborated with Chloe. It is fascinating to see how the designs have evolved over the years. Each era brought interesting designers, and looks that reflect their time. And gives you a peek into the ways that the different deisigners worked. Why not come on a tour of one of the best shows on fashion in New York with a NYC private shopping tour. Let’s visit the compelling show, and see why we are celebrating Chloe..
Chloe was started in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, a woman who had moved to Paris from Egypt. Ms. Aghion had grown tired of dressing in couture, and longed to see interesting clothing that younger women could wear for day to day dressing. She famouly worked with Karl Lagerfeld, and Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo were among the others who created for the brand. Early designers for Ms. Aghion were Maxime de la Falaise and Gerard Pipart. These three dresses were among the earliest done by Karl Lagerfeld in 1967.
The archives also preserved many of Lagerfeld’s many sketches. They are a facinating peek into the creative process.
Lagerfeld took Chloe through all the trends of the era. These two are from the early 70’s. The dress on the left ia a hand-painted replica of a Cubist painting. The outfit on the right echoes art-deco prints that were very popular then.
These two dresses both have a Art Nouveau feel to them. Lagerfeld work with a textile artist, who hand painted all of them. Imagine doing that today?
Lagerfeld also married lace and silk in the 70’s. He brought materials that had been used in lingerie previously, and used them for day wear.
All these dresses evoque the 1930’s and 20’s. Very languid and feminine.
In the early 80’s things tightened up. The dresses were silk, but the had more structure. Lagerfeld had fun, doing groups of musical instruments or colorful puzzles.
There were several versions of the shower dresses, with beaded faucets and water in trompe-l’oeil. Timeless pieces of humor.
Antonio Lopez, the incredible New York illustrator, was a great friend of Lagerfeld’s. His treatment of the watery fun is as classic as the dresses themselves.
This mixed media dress by Lagerfeld is more sedate, but still interesting with the see through effect on the skirt involving legs and movement.
These are dresses from Lagerfeld in the early 90’s. He had left the label in 1983, but returned in 1992. He balanced his time between Chloe, Chanel and Fendi. These dresses mixing different fabrics are sublime.
This Lagerfeld sketch is for a dress using fome of the same fabrications as the previous printed dress. Lagerfeld gave these sketches to the workroom, who brought the pieces to life.
These pieces are from Stella McCartney. She joined the label in 1997. In 2001 she previewed her horse themed dresses. The dress in the center sports a portrait of Chrissie Hynde, the lead singer for a British group, The Pretenders.
Phoebe Philo joined Chloe as McCartney’s assistant. The two had gone to design school together. She created these two dresses, and took over Chloe when McCartney left. These two date from 2006 and 2005.
Philo designed the iconic Paddington Bag in 2005. It was the first designer “it” bag, and opened a whole new revenue stream for the brand. The jacket on the right is from Stella McCartney in 2001.
The dresses on the right are Phoebe Philo from 2004, under an ad featuring models wearing them by Inez and Vinoodh. The graceful pom-pom dress on the left was created by Clare Waight Keller in 2016. Both dresses are free-spirited.
This look is t typical Chloe look, floaty and free. The complex ruffles show how perfectly the workrooms can execute ideas.
These three looks are from Clare Waight Keller from the 2015, 2017 and 2012 collections. The one in the center is knit, and the one at the back mixes metal rings with chiffon. The Chloe look was moving forward.
These two looks are from Chloe by Gabriela Hearst. She employed deadstock fabric and upped the sustsainability of Chloe’s clothes. A designer with a mission. She resigned in fall of 2023, and a new designer, Chemena Kamali, was named head designer. Her first collection will be revealed this spring. And soon we will be celebrating Chloe again.